Multi-MODA: Dibuho
- MA-Isa(gunita)
- Mar 17, 2019
- 6 min read
Updated: Mar 19, 2019
by Coreen Carsula
When I think about pre-colonial Filipino fashion and clothing, I tend to think about the men with their 'bahag' or pants, the women's tunics, blouses, and skirts. They were all produced and designed by members of the tribe with materials and motifs most probably found in their environment. I also tend to think of a vibrant assortment of symbolic colors, of intricate patterns, and of the art of weaving.
There are so many different types of weaving styles and woven textiles all around the Philippine archipelago, native to different tribes and ethonolinguistic groups. What's even more interesting is the fact that these weaving practices are not just a thing of the past, it continues to exist and be practiced up until today. It has been a tradition passed down from generation to generation. A form of art ingrained with utmost reverence and respect for one community's beliefs and practices. These different types of textiles may hold different meanings and may be connected to a certain ritual, a certain standing, or a certain event in one's life.
Some weaving styles are; that which is done by the T'boli in South Cotabato (Lake Sebu), they make the 't'nalak' cloth which is made of abaca and is said to showcase designs passed through dreams by their ancestors. In weaving this cloth the loom used actually has bells on it, the sound of these bells are said to ward off unwanted spirits. This cloth is supposedly used for important life moments. Then there's 'ikat', this is more of a dyeing technique wherein the yarns are bound and then dyed to the preferred color to constitute the desired pattern. In Visayas, there is also this weaving community called 'Bugasong' and over there they make these 'malong-like' garments called a 'patadyong' which one can wear for bathing by the river before or during events of celebration.
all photos above were grabbed from 'Google'. From left to right: Wikipedia, Shutterstock, Topsimages
Though usually viewed as 'traditional', a 'thing of the past', and sometimes looked at with an 'exoticized gaze' there have been efforts to shift these views and shine a different light on these local art forms.
We can all agree though that fashion has come a long way since these art forms arose. It's all about the contemporary when it comes to aesthetics, the cut, and the fabric. However, fashion remains an art, a form of expression. The clothes say something about the wearer and the clothes may also viewed as fitting for specific occasions, locations, and the like.
There has been many innovations in the world of fashion all about pushing it forward, into the future. However, recently there has been various efforts to promote representation for art forms such as these woven textiles. A celebration of diversity by promoting styles usually associated with being 'traditional' as something that is actually situated in the contemporary.
Philippine Star (PhilStar), a Philippine publication, named 11 best dressed women nationalist soul in one of their articles published last year on October 17. These women were named so for #LovingLocal (by Ben Chan) and supporting brands and designers who were also doing so. The article also mentions that with this movement in Philippine fashion, which practices "mix-matching local with foreign", "never before has there been such a surge of consciousness for clothes and accessories made in the Philippines as now."
Some of these brands, to name a few, are PioPio, Filip+Inna, and Kaayo Modern Mindanao. It's quite surprising how many designers and brands are embracing our culture and identity as of now. Visiting their websites and social media pages really do ignite a desire in me to support these kinds of products and support this representation (I hope others will feel the same way).
all photos above came from an article of PhilStar (click the photo to launch PhilStar's article)
The articles did not only mention clothing brands but also the designers of the accessories worn by the women in the photographs. Speaking of accessories, let's talk about shoes! Spot.ph named 10 local footwear brands, among these were brands like Lupa Saenz shoes that showcased t'nalak fabric in one of their shoe designs and Ylla shoes, "a brand that takes pride in shoes made of responsibly-sourced materials from different parts of the country. We like that they let make use of indigenous, upcycled fabrics and let traditional weaves shine in their designs."
all photos above came from an article of Spot.ph (click the photo to launch Spot.ph's article)
Another best dressed woman is reigning Miss Universe Catriona Gray. She definitely wowed everyone with her grace, her beauty, her personality, her eloquence and wit. However, another admirable quality of Miss Catriona is her nationalism that is reflected by how she represented our country. She really 'wore her pride', notable with the iconic "Alab at Dangal" (Three Stars and The Sun) ear cuff and her stunning winning dress by Mak Tumang which depicts lava associated with the Mayon Volcano.
She dressed like this, symbolically [if you will], not only during the coronation night but in every step of the competition, really showing her desire to rightfully represent the Philippines. She wore dresses that incorporated local fabrics like the t'nalak cloth, dresses hand-painted with national symbols such as the 'anahaw' leaves and 'sampaguitas', and a gown that was inspired by the mythical creature 'Ibong Adarna'.
The brands and designers #LovingLocal and Catriona Grays outfits are definitely inspirations for this project. Multi-MODA is a fashion project focusing on clothing and producing clothing that celebrates Philippine culture and the Filipino people. In doing so it is important to note that we want to avoid appropriation, that is why I ultimately decided to start with showcasing the community that I belong to in order to not misrepresent. 'DIBUHO' (meaning sketch) is the first step for the project, the conceptualization, the research, and the actual sketches is what's included here.
Let me now proceed to discussing the proposed first collection under the 'Multi-MODA' project.
The collection shall be called 'Disenyo Bulakenyo' as the pieces included here are inspired by different art forms that originated from Bulacan or art forms that Bulacan is most known for.
The first piece is inspired by the art of 'pabalat' making or 'pastillas' wrapper cutting. Pastillas is a Filipino milk-based dessert and San Miguel, Bulacan is famous not only for the dessert but also its delicate and detailed wrappers. The dress is white tafetta on the 'outside', this fabric will have the cutouts to represent the pabalat, the tulle under skirt shall add volume to the dress, mimicking the proportions of the pastillas with the wrapper.
Next is a two-piece garment inspired by the art of leaf fronds folding or coconut leaf weaving referred to 'puni'. The garment will be featuring a few different shades of green given that it's representing leaves. The main material of the crop top and shirt combination would preferably be broadcloth while woven silk/woven silk ribbons would be used for the puni accents.
Third is a 'singkaban' inspired frock. It shall be beige in color with gold embroidery. The embroidery shall show the intricacy of the patterns made with the bamboo just like in actual singkaban arches. These singkaban arches are usually known for being welcome signages or arches constructed for town fiestas.
Bulacan [specifically Baliuag, Bulacan] is also known for 'buntal' hat weaving. Buntal fibers are woven to form the hats (sometimes other accessories), to add color the are bleached and dried. This outfit is meant to be the more casual and everyday. The top is a simple, loose-sleeved white cotton crop top. The symbolism here is the use of cotton for fabric as the root-word of 'Bulacan', 'bulak' is the Filipino term for cotton. The bottoms is a light-wash denim shorts with a buntal weaving accent sewn onto it. This accent will probably not be made of buntal fibers per se but of a lighter fabric for practicality but the designs and patterns shall mimic that of the buntal hats.
The last one is more of a general 'Filipino' theme with the 'colors of the flag' inspired dress. This is rather straight forward having a ruby red base dress underneath a navy blue to gold to white gradient tulle overlay. This is meant to have a tulle or organza skirt underneath to support the shape of the dress.
As a Bulakenyo I have decided to begin with garments that represent the community I grew up in and belong to so as to do a better job in said representation. This project does not want to appropriate but then at the same time it also does not aim to forward a regionalistic mindset. This is only the beginning. With Dibuho we aim to first pitch the idea and start the discussion. We also would like to see what people would say on topics such as also doing "menswear" or more unisex pieces that embody Philippine culture. Also, what the dialogue would be on making these clothes more accessible and affordable for the general public.
What do you think? Come be a part of this project and feel free to comment down below!
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